Too bad that Zenix's replica knob is threaded for M16x1.5mm and McMaster doesn't' carry anything with that thread, I may have to see what I can get on eBay, or make my own ball as you did. All this will make the inside look extremely technical and of course and add to the effect. Then I realized that to make it feel realistic it needs some smooth friction, so I added a speed limiter on another gear. So I added a gear to drive a thin potentiometer. I wanted a way to be able to use this to connect to some electronics, it would make an awesome throttle for my Star Wars Squadrons VR rig. I added the ball spring, with detents at both extremes and 90 degrees. To get around the screw self-loosening issue I put the screw threads into the housing, with a clearance hole on the shaft holder.

The corner screws are not symmetrical on the actual prop, but I couldn't bring myself to place them off center. For the corner screws I made them #8-32 tap holes, so you can drive in screws to complete the look even if you use the magnets. I integrated the baseplate into the housing since it looks like there is a weld or casting line on the actual prop. The shaft is about 3/8' too long, but if you cut that off the threaded end the left over threads will be screen accurate). I ended up with a radius of 1.41' and a housing width of 1.66'. I took your general dimensions to start from, but then redid the whole model based on the side image and the ball size you selected. (If you want me to start a separate thread let me know) (as always) Currently I want to make this for myself and release the design files once done. Okay, so I went a bit overboard on this one. Add to cart STAR WARS 'Razor Crest' - Flaps. Without the glue, the screws will loosen as the lever is moved. Complete whole new super accurate cargo bay with bathroom and sleeping compartment with real leader to cockpit for 'Razor Crest' from STAR WARS - Mandalorian for AMT kit. The heads of the screw will rotate against the holes in the base (apply some silicone grease under the heads). NOTE: When assembling, use a dab of super glue gel to lock the threads of the screws within the pivot piece.

You'll also need two 8-32 x 1/2' flat head hex drive screws for the pivot, in black oxide or stainless steel (pictured are two stainless ones, painted black as that's what the local store had, though I now see that the lever in the second episode has stainless screws): Optionally, epoxy 4 neodymium disc magnets into the base, either 6x3 mm or 1/4' x 1/8' If you already have a ball replica with different threading, here's the overall category page:

The 4' stud is pictured, but I think the 5' or 6' versions are more screen accurate to the actual set.ġ8-8 Stainless Steel Partially Threaded Stud 1/2'-13 Thread, 5' Long -ġ8-8 Stainless Steel Partially Threaded Stud 1/2'-13 Thread, 6' Long. I used these parts from McMaster for the ball and arm:Īluminum Ball Knob with 1/2'-13 Threaded Hole, 1-3/8' Head Diameterġ8-8 Stainless Steel Partially Threaded Stud 1/2'-13 Thread, 4' Long

Razor crest cockpit